some recent photos

 

From top to bottom: a confused mandy; Mike on the approach to DB eh?; Remarkable sunset; Mount Armstrong sunrise

The mountains

Single cone on left and the two summits of double cone on right.  The rock route went up the most prominent buttress from the bottom righthand corner of the picture above the snow to the top of the (appearing but not actually) tallest peak near top center of photo.  Then followed ridgeline over the three peaks.  For you Lord of the Rings fans...the remarkables are the peaks that can be seen in the background as the people of Rohan are heading to Helms deep on the eve of battle.

The Climb (written 12/11/09)

Wow! Yesterday was by far the most significant climb I've ever done. It marks my first true alpine rock route that I've personally done. Mike, from Crestone, CO, and I set out at 8 AM to the foot of the south-east buttress of double cone in the Remarkables. Our objective was a 5-8 pitch route called "DB-eh?" playing on the abreviation "DBA" used in guidebooks to signify a double bolt anchor. However, no bolts were to be used on this climb. We were left to our own devices to place all the protection and anchors on the climb. The route achieving 3 out of 3 possible stars was of climbing up to grade 17 or U.S. 5.9 although many of the pitches were easier. In all it took us 9 pitches to reach our first of two double cone summits, hence the name. The worst part of the climb for me was the first pitch. At the base Mike held out his closed fists and said, "pebble gets first lead". I chose the hand with the pebble, and thus was on the red carpet for the first lead of the day...the way I wanted it, or so I thought. The bottom was easy and didn't need much protection as moves were safe and manageable. However, the top third of the pitch was a tough to protect steeper slab with sparse positive handholds and a vegetated, soggy seam of a crack. As well, the once rope ran out for the pitch, the anchor construction was frustrating as several gear placements seemed dodgy and I couldn't get one that I thought was super bomber. However, I sorted it out although it took quite a while and put Mike in a bit of a time panic, justifiably.

Things quickly turned around as the next couple pitches continued up vertical overlaps inthe rock and Mike and I swapped efficient leads with each new pitch. By Mike's second lead (pitch 4) we realized we were a bit right of the route and decided to traverse back left a bit. As these things go, the traverse was a bit tenuous for both the leader (mike) and the second as a fall by either would certainly mean a swing. This however went uneventfully and put us at the base of what was to be the crux pitch. A wide, blocky chimney with water trickling on all sides made the pitch interesting as it was important to make sure your holds were not comprimised by the wetness. One good piece of protection near the the top of the steep section allowed for peace of mind to top out onto easier terrain and finish off the ropelength to a secure anchor on a ledge...what a luxury! After another straightforward lead by Mike we decided to simulclimb the next pitch until terrain got steeper again or I ran out of gear to place. Terrain got steeper first and I built and anchor at the foot of what was to be our last pitch and a half of climbing. The tough climbing wasn't quite over yet though, as the summit cone got a bit steeper again, but took good pro. I belayed Mike up and we took in our first of what was to be three almost equally prominent summits on the day. At the top of the North summit of double cone we unroped and climbed across dramatically exposed, but easy 5th class terrain to the other double cone summit. After a couple more pictures, we downclimbed the the saddle between single and double cone and roped up once more for our final summit assault of the day.

One fully pitch followed by a simulclimb final pitch took us there, single cone's apex. However our adventure was not quite over as in climbing, getting to the top is only half the battle. Downclimbing the summit ridge tackled some steep, exposed terrain which led eventually to a steep upper snowfield above bluffs below. To save weight for the climb, we had brought only one ice ax and Mike had opted for sneakers instead of mountaineering boots. So, there we were at the toe of the rock ridge, changing out of cramped climbing shoes on a wee ledge above snow. Mike went first with the ice ax and sneakers soon to be followed by me with my boots, yet two nut tools (metal sticks essentially) using to gain any puchase in the snow with my hands...gloveless unfortunately!! Luckily, with the late afternoon, the snow was soft and kicking steps with boots provided very secure steps in the snow, making the descent much more comfortable than if could have been.

The only stop made after that was to dip our lips directly into the creek to hydrate. After hiking around to the base of the climb to collect gear we had left at the bottom, we found ourselves back at the van, almost 12-hours later, ready for some dinner and much appreciated sleep.

The Remarks

Two days ago I did the most amazing climb of my life in the Remarkables outside of Queenstown. After getting back down to the base I wrote a log of the climb. I don't have it with me currently, but will put it up soon when I do! Something to look forward to!

Calendar Pages

All of a sudden, once again, I am looking at a calendar and am amazed by what is left ahead of me in such a short amount of time. I left Bruce and Swenja's this morning, subsequently embarking on my final journey in NZ. The past few weeks at their house involved much cooking, weeding, and general maintenance of the land. Few new projects were started and at times it seemed as though jobs were only being done because there was nothing pressing to finish. I could feel my time there wrapping up and this morning it did. I'm incredibly grateful to Bruce and Swenja for having me around for so long and although it was unsaid at our parting, their pure presence helped my climbing progress over my time there and for that alone I am indebted to them since it was one of my primary goals in leaving the comforts of Colorado College to come here.

I am currently very hopeful to embark on some final climbing adventures in NZ. This past weekend I hiked up to the Brewster hut, above Haast Pass connecting Wanaka to the West Coast. The hut is underneath Mt. Armstrong and Mt. Brewster. My day friday ended with me hiking up to the hut to see a sunset over the mountains and the west coast. Upon arrival at the hut I ran into two other americans, one who has been living in NZ for 10 years and the other who is traveling around looking to climb, like me. As well, he is from Crestone, CO where CC has a satelite campus in southern Colorado...crazy huh? At 4 AM on Saturday morning we headed up to the top of Mt. Armstrong, an amazing, yet easy snow and rock scramble, to watch a beautiful sunrise and were back at the hut basking in the morning sun by 8AM. Mike and I are now keen on going to the Darrans to do some alpine climbing for hopefully at least a week. After that it is off to Dunedin to sell Mandy, maybe stay with some wwoof hosts there and make it back to Queenstown. I'm very excited by the prospects of all this climbing and hopefully will have some good weather windows to do so.

After all this traveling, seeing familiar faces in familiar places is going to be incredibly comforting and I can't wait! I hope everyone is doing well and as excited to see me as I am you! Much love!

Peter

After a climb at Charleston, West Coast, NZ

Back again

Howdy folks,

How're you goin? Well, I'm back in Wanaka and the sun is once again shining. My five weeks of travel around the south island produced a ton of rain which left us locked inside Mandy for more than a couple nights. However back in Wanaka, surrounded by mountains on all sides the weather simply seems to get blocked and elbowed out of the way as this place is flat dry - but incredibly windy! It reminds me of Colorado a lot except for the extreme wind constantly. I arrived back last friday just in time to start partying. Bruce and Swenja threw a huge party for no reason on Friday the 13th. Friends from Wanaka and beyond descended on Bruce's work shed which in a matter of two weeks had gone from a manly, sawdust-filled auditorium of work tools to a relaxing lavender colored yoga studio to a raving party house. I was in for a long night as these New Zealand folk were tireless party-ers and danced until well after the sun was up again. Coming hot off of CC's party culture of things starting as early as 8 PM and ending no later than 2 AM if it is the most outrageous party of the year, I was a bit overwhelmed after and snuck off around 5:30 to watch the sun rise although coincidentally, I got to see the moon rise first! However overwhelming on the whole, does not account for the fact that I had a fantastic time and suddenly feel at home again with this Wanaka community.

Once again too, I'm back at it, cracking away at the rocks and subsequently climbing those cracks. Not actually, but I am climbing and simply staying active. However, my favorite thing that has happened since getting back was going to the movies with Bruce, Swenja, and Tony last last night. We saw the movie 2012 at the small independent theater with couches instead of tiered seats and an intermission when they serve full meals, cookies, beer, wine, coffee, anything really...a proper cafe. Although that added to the experience the true beauty was in the movie...which by all conventions was absolutely horrible except that in such a way that it was really good and entertaining. You sit there (for far too long) and simply laugh at what hollywood has produced. I HIGHLY recommend seeing this movie, except in doing so, you must see it with friends who you are ready to laugh with because it will be a wild ride undoubtedly. Well, I'm thinking I might try to leave some short snippets and stories that have happened over the course of my trip so that it adds a little more spice than simply re-hashing my day to day actions.

My first happened recently when I was making my way back from Christchurch to Wanaka. It is a considerable drive and along the way there is a "driver reviver" which is a cafe that offers free coffee for drivers on the road. Naturally I pulled over immediately and grabbed a coffee. In order to further my excitedness for the rest of my driving I put on a rather intense, upbeat, and aggressive hip-hop/rap/electronic mixture...a bunch of popular rap songs covered by ratatat with electronic beats behind. As I pulled out I rolled down the window and bumped up the music. Quickly however came a turn that I had to slow to 30 kilometers per hour and enter a work zone to navigate. Doing so quickly I had no time to turn down music as I looked up inquisitively to the two workers as to which direction I should go. They signaled and as I started passing them I became suddenly and violently aware of the ridiculousness of my situation. Here I was, this confused, help seeking young guy passing along two road workers, with my windows down and strong rap music beating impetuously in the background. As soon as I became aware of the fact, I heard unrestricted laughter coming from the two workers. All I could do as I continued on was laugh with them.

That's my story for today.

Much love